A Night Under Curfew in Thailand
It's 8:21pm: I'm alone in my apartment. I've just
gotten back from eating dinner. I've seen the empty spaces around Tha Pae gate
in the center of Chiang Mai. Something in my gut tells me these empty spaces
are different from previous ones I've seen on other nights. Perhaps, the statement of martial law I heard
announced on Tuesday is in the back of my mind. Yet I dismiss this feeling from
my mind. I can't tell, as I'm writing this, if there was anything special about
those moments or not.
It's now 8:24pm: I've typed the first paragraph of
these reflections. Now, I turn towards the moment when I switched on my TV and
heard Al Jazeera report on the news that the Thai army has assumed full control
of the government and arrested rival political leaders at a gathering. I saw
this report at a little past 7pm. I keep the TV on for an hour, flipping
between International News networks, to see if anyone has new information. I
make a call or two. I send a text message. I'm not sure if I'm fueling panic or
not by writing these to post on my blog tomorrow.
At a little before 8:20pm: An AJE reporter on my box
says that International Networks are being disconnected and local stations have
already been taken off the air. Within less then a minute, the signal for AJE
cuts out along with all other signals. By this point, I've tried several times
to get online. My apartment's internet is out. It's a poor quality and often cuts
out. I begin to wonder. Was the signal overloaded as it often is? Or was it
disconnected by the powers that be.
It's now 8:32pm: and I've finished recounting
everything that led me up to this sentence.
I pause, wondering what to write next, wondering why I
started writing these thoughts down in the first place?
First, it's to calm my nerves. Coups, I suddenly realize, are a sign of incredible uncertainty. There has been incredible uncertainty in Thailand's political system for a long time.
Second, I've lived through one very intense period of political upheaval before. I saw the rise of the Arab Spring in Cairo Egypt in 2010. I also saw the trial, violence and painful change it caused for real Egyptians, real people, not images on TV sets or internet lives streams.
I fear seeing this pain again. I fear it.
Yet, Egypt is not Thailand. Thailand is not Egypt. I have no way of knowing of whether the army coup will turn out as it did in Egypt in 2010 or how it has now in 2014.
I check my internet connection again. It's still not
working. I check the time. It's 8:42pm. There's less than two hours until
the army's 10:00pm curfew goes into affect.
I think back to uncertainty.
Silence and quiet: They are pervasive now in my apartment, in my
building in the world outside. The loudest noises I hear are Geckos chirping,
going about their lives on the walls and in the bush. I don't hear the sound of
anyone talking. I don't hear my neighbors' doors slamming as they go out or
come back from eating.
Only Geckos, my fan, bugs buzzing. These are the sounds I
hear.
The lack of noise, is
the most disturbing thing about this night. More emptiness and unknown. That's
what I think I will remember the most
about this coup I think.
I realize how silly a fear this is. Human existence has
always been subject to unknowns. A coup or an event such as this, simply throws
this more into perspective.
Our lives, are rather ordinary and routine lives, can be
suddenly put on hold by forces we don't understand or comprehend, not truly.
Sometimes it's a human force like an army, sometimes its nature.
There's not much we can truly do about it.
I suddenly get up and switch my TV on again to check if I
can get new info from there.
It's 8:53pm: The signals are all still out. My
internet won't come back.
I debate about going out before curfew: I would like water, maybe I could find an internet cafe airport at 3am in Cairo during a curfew and still managed to get a taxi to take me through the deserted streets of a city of 20 million people without hassle.net cafe, maybe buy a few beers. I realize though I don't
really need any of that, not now. Except, for the internet cafe but I know the
one closest to me is closed and I doubt I could reach any-others before curfew
and get back in time.
I decide to stay, after debating with myself about whether
to go or not. I wonder if my friends and family will worry. Some will more than
others, I'm sure. But when the curfew ends tomorrow at 5:am, i'll be able to
go out.
I remember how some of the curfews in Egypt were only
loosely enforced. I remember how I arrived at t
I remind myself, how Thailand isn't Egypt. I decided again
to stay in my apartment.
I start thinking of myself and others again.
I wonder if people I know in Chiang Mai are more aware of
what's going on than I am. I wonder if everyone has news about the curfew and
if they're sitting in their homes as I am right now.
I think of my students. I think both of the ones I've taught
and those I'm teaching now. I think of the small seven and six year old faces
I've seen today, today which was a normal day of school.
I wonder if they are aware of anything that's going on in
their country. I wonder if they are asleep now, dreaming. I wonder if they are
playing. I wonder if they've seen or heard something from the world around them
that makes them feel unsafe on this night. I sincerely hope they do not. I deeply, lovingly hope they have not.
I find myself wishing them and everyone they know a great
night of rest.
I wonder if I will have school tomorrow. I highly doubt it.
It's 9:09pm: The world is still very quiet, apart
from Nature's children. I decide to try and watch a movie and give my fingers a
rest.
It's 10:03pm: Curfew has been in affect for three
minutes. I might go to sleep now. I found out I won't have school tomorrow
because of events in Bangkok. I find myself surprised by how relieved I am that
I won't have to wake up at 6:50am tomorrow. It's a comfort. I'm also surprised
my school was efficient enough to send out an SMS to us so that we knew about
the country wide school-closures.
I've tried watching a movie but unfortunately I wasn't in a
mood to see any of the films I have on my computer. TV still out, as is the
net.
I wish I could update myself on what's going on tonight. I
have a feeling most of my friends and family outside of Thailand will know more
than I do about this night than I will.
I'm struck by how ordinary a night this has been. It's
really not been very different from previous nights. I went to school, worked
for over eight hours and then went home at 4:00. I ate a meal at a local
restaurant, I bought some water, went home and crashed on my bed.
This is something I do all so often...only now it's being
imposed on me. It's an odd kind of normalcy. So much of what happens during
times of crises like this is mundane, I've found. It never grabs attention in
the media.
I imagine most people in this country are going to wake up
like me tomorrow and wonder how mundane their Friday will be. Yet most will
doubt awake, we will breathe we will blink we will feel the heat touch our skin
and we will stick our heads out the door to see what awaits us.
So, with that, I end my thoughts.
It is now 10:21pm.
No comments:
Post a Comment